Pae Po’o- Hawaiian word translates “to go head first”
This section is an explanation of what I believe makes the Pocket Rocket work. Part of the fun of surfing and board design is testing and collecting ideas of what works and why. What makes a good Pae po’o Board go?
All Hydrodynamic– Traditional surfboards, boats, body boards, most watercraft operate in part because of bouyancy. The Pocket Rocket and other pae po’o boards operate with low, almost neutral bouyancy. This creates a surfcraft that sits lower in the water with more of the surface area of the board in contact with the surface and energy of movement below the surface of the water. When a wave is beginning to crest and break, the compression of the water that lifts the wave up against gravity can be used as a fuel to propel the board forward. as the forward motion increases, the wetted surface and friction of the board decreases to create a squirting effect that increases the momentum of the board and rider. This momentum can be used to maneuver up and down the face of the wave as well as in a diagonal angle that utilizes the energy of the water rising up against gravity to provide lift that translates into greater speed running across the face of the wave.
Not too big– The size of the board is designed to be easily controlled during riding and also at the end of the ride the board can easily be ducked through the back of the wave, something that is much more difficult and with bodyboard or surfboard that relies on bouyancy. The idea behind the Pocket Rocket was to make the smallest board that would allow the rider to build speed by pushing down hard on the forearm and elbow on the inside rail as the water is flow up the face of the wave. The pae po’o board during this phase of the wave is directing the water. This allows the rider to move the head shoulders and chest out of the water, decreasing drag, increasing the efficiency and momentum of the board and rider.
Shape– The original outline is based upon a minimal length and width while still allowing sufficient planing surface. The rails are soft and contoured up at the front of the board to make a convex shape. The water tends to stick to this surface and this allows the board to capture and direct the water through middle of the board. at this point the water is met with the beginning of a concave section. The water flowing under the board is cmpressed by the weight of the rider rising out of the water and pressure on the rail of the board. since water does not compress well, it seeks an area of lower pressure and is directed toward the concave area and out back of the board.
The rear of the board is the key to the speed of the board. Experience has shown that boards tend to turn from their wide point. By putting the wide point in the back, under the riders chest and hips, this allows the rider to more efficiently translate forward momentum (speed)into maneuverability. The arms, shoulders, chest and hips as well as legs and swim fins help direct to water under the board to control the ride and use the energy of the wave without the drag of a fixed fin like on a surfboard or the keel of a boat. I suspect the concave has a kind of venturi effect. The water that hugs the front of the board increases in speed as it flows through the middle of the board and out towards the rear. The width of the board under the body taps into the energy of the water movement up the face of the wave and translates the movement into release and forward thrust.
You will notice that there are 2 sizes of board that I make. The smaller size is my daily driver in waves up to 6′-8′ (2 to 3 meters) I also prefer this size in steep, hollow beach break, double up type waves. The small size feels right in the barrel of small to medium size waves. and is easier to hang onto at the end of the ride.
The larger size is closer to the size of traditional Pae Po’o boards in Oahu form the 1950-1970’s, but still somewhat smaller say 30″-32″ x 24″” (approx 80cm X 60cm) While still somewhat smaller, this board is my favorite in waves over 6′ and also point and reef waves that may be longer and have a lot of different sections. The greater surface area gets into the wave sooner and can be faster across the face of the wave and also allows more of the riders body to rise out of the water.
The larger boards have access to different parts of the wave further from the steep pocket. The boards can also offer greater efficiency in a weight forward planing position, adding some additional squirt to make more sections.
Squirt– a quick stream- I use this word to describe the sensation of unexpected acceleration, enabling the rider to move further across the wave
Laminar Flow– Laminar flow means that the water molecules are flowing in the same direction in parallel layers and sticking together, The goal of the board surface is to take laminar flow of water and redirect the water in a similar laminar fashion. In the steeper parts of the wave face, the water is moving in a very laminar manner being pulled up the face. The goal of the pae po’o design is to harness this flow of water to create lift and forward momentum and minimize drag. Turbulence in the water creates areas of higher drag and slows the board and rider down. The example of turbulence is after the wave breaks and there is chaotic water movement in many directions. Turbulence makes it difficult for the pae po’o to translate the wave’s energy into directional momentum.
Style– My definition of style is a manner of action that spontaneously reflects the personality of the rider. The development and adaption of personal style to different waves and conditions is the goal of progression in surfing. In my opinion, Developing Style ultimate goal of the entire endeavor, at the very heart of surfing.